This Might Be One Of The Best Audio Listening Systems You Can Buy!

The most incredible audio system you’ll ever find!

I’ve finally uncovered a “lifetime ownership” heirloom audio system that can also interest almost anyone in your family. You and they can pick up each component! I’ll share my recommendations below if you continue to read on.

No one piece is heavier than the power amp. The 300B tube amp that I recommend weighs approximately 41 lbs. The Bricasti M3 DAC weighs 10 lbs. Each Hagen weighs 8 lbs, and each alternative Corian-clad OGY weighs 18.96 lbs. Each BOB is 24.25 lbs. The Class D amp puts 150w/ch (for the BOBs only) into 8 ohms. If you use a Class D volume-controlled amp for your 2nd amp, the weight is 3.08 lbs and measures 7.87″ wide x 6.1″ deep x 1.61″ high. All items meet my 40 lb max weight per component requirement, with the 300B amp almost there.

The Law Of Physics As It Applies To Speaker Design

Are you tired of trying to work with the law of physics (WARNING: LARGE PDF FILE!), which tells you that there are three parameters that you can use to determine the size and weight of your speakers and, consequently, the sound quality you can enjoy?

“Cabinet size (the bigger, the better), bass depth (how low it will go), and price (don’t pay extra for bling)

In the end, speaker design is all about accepting trade-offs. Suppose you can live with a relatively large speaker cabinet. High-sensitivity drivers can be used, but large speaker cabinets significantly strain your relationships with others. Spouses don’t have much tolerance for large speakers, while most consumers prefer speakers with reasonable bass extensions that require large speaker cabinets. What do you do?

I’ve struggled with this problem all my adult life and have always found that an expensive, high-efficiency, and large speaker system sounds the best when used with an adequately powered tube amplifier. Solid-state amps sound too thin, even though I’ve tried most designs. I’ve found that I must use a tube amp to add the body to gain the sound quality of real music. It is not just any tube amp (lower powered DHT triode-based only, not push/pull with lots of power). However, one that is fully integrated with the complete system and doesn’t exceed the power output of a good 300B tube amp (there is a reason for this). I have finally found a solution that works for me and will share it below. It will also work for you if you keep reading.

It’s not the quality of the amplifier that creates your problem; even though it needs to be good. It doesn’t need to be exotic, however (i.e., two chassis separating the power and circuit, adding a lot of bling to make the amp look better than it sounds, and other items that increase cost above $10,000 are unnecessary.) Then, there are still tube costs to deal with. You want to use the EMS 300B or Western Electric 300B tubes. Both will provide you with a sound quality that is considerably different and allow you to change your system’s presentation drastically. Either cost a lot, but the EMS is about 1/2 the price, which is my ideal suggestion. Choosing your system’s speaker design makes a huge difference, even though your source is ultimately the most important. You can only listen to what the source can do IF your speakers can also play all of the information created by your source.

I’ve built almost everything available: open baffle, sealed box, ported box, single amp, bi-amp, multichannel amp, and everything in between (transmission line, backloaded horn, etc). Understanding how to do this has cost me considerable money and time, but I’ve enjoyed the journey. Do you need to take the same path as I have? Probably not. Choosing an audio system is always a compromise; you must select your compromises carefully, or you’ll waste a lot of money and never be satisfied. I’ve done that for many decades and have finally uncovered a system design that will “tick” all of my boxes, and this system will do the same for you if you let it. I’ve even built my components when I couldn’t find them done the way I would like, and I have become a well-heeled OEM and audio reseller along the way. But that’s me and not you.

In the end, the presentation that a good 300B amp makes is what I’ve been searching for. I previously used two 300B amps and didn’t like either of them, so I wrote off this tube. That was a mistake. One was an upgraded Elekit 300B 8600S (I built that for Kevin at Glow In The Dark Audio, and he felt the same as I did – this amp didn’t have the “magic” that a 300B tube is capable of and sounded more like a solid-state amp.) The other was a $10,000 Finale 300B amp (from Canada), and again, I wouldn’t say I liked that amp’s sound quality, so I sold it and moved on. This time, I vastly upgraded a Sun Valley 300B amp kit that cost $2,000 and put another $4,000 into parts cost. That amp sounds excellent and is more to my liking. I’m using it to “fine-tune” this system. I also purchased a Dennis Had 300B amp to compare the two. As a result, the third 300B amp (currently unknown) will result from my research into gaining the sound quality I’ve always wanted and be my final destination.

BUILDING THIS SYSTEM

The key to achieving world-class sound quality is adding open baffle bass to your higher midrange and treble speaker monitors using two separate stereo amps (one tube and one Class D). Separate this stack (per left and right channels) into three stacked boxes per side (total height is at ear level for the treble), and you’ll end up with the best sound quality you can achieve with the most flexibility while making your system moveable by anyone. My goal is that one piece weighs no more than 40 pounds and can be lifted and moved by anyone. Forty pounds is probably the most anyone can lift realistically, and I use that goal for my requirements.

Your sound must also not activate your room nodes. All bass-oriented box speakers do, and that’s a fact of life. So, I no longer use them for the bass element of my musical reproducing system. The Hagen’s I recommend as my #1 solution is a backloaded short horn, and the opening on the front of the cabinet is not a port. The OGYs are my #2 solution and are a transmission line design, and their opening on the front of the cabinet is not a port either.

Open baffle bass won’t pound you in the chest with its bass (subwoofers are highly unrealistic and won’t sound like music since they don’t integrate well with your primary system) and will provide bass augmentation that is quick, tight and sounds most like real music without accentuating bass nodes. This bass augmentation system is the least likely to accentuate bass nodes and is much easier to listen to than a closed cabinet design with subwoofers. The perfect bass drivers begin at a minimum size of two 12″ in open bass cabinets and are ideally stacked instead of placed in a single cabinet. This is probably the best-sized driver and the best way to mount them. Anything smaller or larger creates issues.

Two stacked drivers also make an ideal stand for the small bookshelf monitors carefully placed on top. Use a DHT triode class A amplifier with the most power that is available with that design (the 300B tube amp using a pair of 300B tubes and a good one according to your preferences) and bi-amp this system using a Class D amplifier with volume control for the open bass augmentation speakers. This combination will provide the best sound quality. It will best the law of physics that plagues most of us who try to create the sound quality of real music using pre-recorded music and standard speakers (either bookshelf or floor standing.)

The Closer Acoustics BOB speakers provide a manufactured solution and a bass unit that weighs 24.25 pounds each. Even though their 12″ driver cabinets are made in Poland, and you have to wait while they’re built and shipped across the Atlantic, this provides the foundation for your audio system. I can place an order for you since I’m a dealer for Closer Acoustics, which typically is manufactured directly only. My markup is tiny, but if you work with me, I can help you build this system, and it makes more sense to order from a US-based company like me rather than directly from a manufacturer in another country. My experience and honest suggestions make this a winning combination for you, not just the component purchases. That is intangible but makes sense based on my years of excellent experience trying to assemble this system. You can, of course, order from Closer directly on your own. Your price won’t be any more attractive, and you won’t have my help assembling this system or any future upgrade possibilities.

I’m doing this for your benefit, and the other components I use are all fine-tuned honestly by me, and I am not glued to any particular manufacturer. Instead, I listen, and if I like a system approach I have personally heard, I share it with others. That’s what I’m doing here. As a result, I always put together the best-sounding system that can be created using components I genuinely believe in and use myself – first. That’s it. I’m not interested in selling everything under the sun to make money. Instead, I aim to create the most musical system within my set parameters. If you follow my suggestions, you will benefit immensely. If you don’t, more power to you.

Is There Another Bass Solution That You Would Use?

The only other bass augmentation speaker I would use as an alternative to the Closer BOBs is a ri-pole design utilizing at least two 12″ drivers per side (not 10″ or smaller) with an electronic analog crossover unit (the CR-1 made by JL Acoustics and yes I’ve owned and used one) and a separate Class D amp. If I went in this direction, I wouldn’t need the volume-controlled Class D amp and instead could use the volume control on the CR-1. However, this system would be even more complex and require higher-quality interconnects. The Closer Acoustics design works almost as well as a ri-pole unit and doesn’t require separate crossover and extra interconnects. You can order these Closer modules (through me).

The BOBs are available with black fronts with walnut sides or white fronts with natural maple sides. A pair of these act as stands for the small monitors you place on top, minimizing your floor space and the number of components you need to use. The total floor space for a bottom BOB unit is 15.75″ wide x 13.78″ deep. That’s it!

Good monitor stands typically occupy that much floor space, so you can’t save floor space using just the bookshelf speakers and a pair of stands. You also won’t have the bass augmentation that I feel is important. This accomplishes much the same thing as an excellent floor-standing speaker system but sounds better and is much smaller. Everyone can move or lift every component, not just you or a pair of husky movers.

The small bookshelf speakers you place on top determine your mid-range and treble quality, and that’s the sound quality you want to optimize. Closer makes their OGYs, and I would only use their Corian-clad monitors in white or black (to minimize vibrations) if you purchase a pair to save money (again through me). However, they are 91db efficient, and using a 300B amplifier (the best DHT triode design with adequate power) puts the 300B at its limits before you can crank these speakers very much. This might be good for lower-volume near-field listening but also limits the genre of music you can play. Ideally, higher-efficiency midrange and treble speakers are needed, and I have a solution. Keep reading.

A much better choice is to use the Voxativ Hagen speakers with AF-2.6 drivers. I’ve used those same single-driver speakers in a Charney Maestro Extreme tractrix horn cabinet and really like their sound quality considerably. The Charney cabinet design provides the bass, but I now get a much better bass sound quality using a pair of BOBs per channel with the Hagens on top (with AF-2.6 drivers).

I can also bi-amp my system and provide even better sound quality than with the Charneys alone and a single amplifier, and I also gain a super high efficiency of 99db for one of the amps. Hagen monitors with AF-2.6 on top (at 99db efficient into 8 ohms), a reasonable cost Class D amp with volume control (around 150 w/ch into 8 ohms) for the BOBs (94 db efficient bass augmentation), and stacking the Hagens make for an ideal system. That would be my ideal choice. I’d then use one of my stereo 300B amplifiers to power only the Hagens. The Class D stereo amp would power the BOBs.

The BOBs also need a Closer inductor unit that limits the top end of the BOBs to playing less than 125Hz. The higher efficiency of the Hagens allows you to play your 300B tube amp full range. You no longer need the CR-1 electronic crossover unit if you use the Hagens. The Class D amplifier takes over for the bass augmentation, provides the needed power, and drives the more significant-sized 12″ bass drivers (not your 300B amp). The sound quality of the Hagens and BOBs blends seamlessly (the Voxativ A2.6 matches the sound quality and speed you get from the 12″ EMS-based bass drivers), so you don’t end up with integration problems that a subwoofer would cause. I’ve tried every possible subwoofer design, and these Voxativ A2.6 speakers are too fast, tight, and detailed to use a slower sealed or ported subwoofer, regardless of brand or cost.

Playing the upper monitor full range and having only one inductor coil in the signal path for each pair of BOBs is the best way to optimize your sound quality. Full-range drivers are highly transparent and somewhat thin in sound quality, and your choice of a good 300B amplifier will add the needed body to your sound and allow you to achieve the absolute best sound quality according to your tastes. The 300B amp also puts out just the right amount of power and is at the top of the DHT triode design. It’s ideal for this system. Your choice of tubes then becomes your way of further fine-tuning this amp. Any larger power output (more than 8 watts) will create problems, and veering away from the DHT single-ended design will lessen your sound quality. You would need to spend a lot more money to do this well with any other design, and all you would get is more power and less sound quality. I’m not interested in that approach.

The 1st watt is your best and most important. Beyond the 1st watt, the extra wattage extends the music you play into your listening room and provides enough headroom to prevent distortion. The Hagen’s will allow that to be done well enough due to their quality and high efficiency of 99db. They are small, and you only need one good 300B tube amplifier to take the edge off those single-driver speakers. This purchase is a delight and one of the best you can make. The OGYs will be a compromise (power-wise) but are suitable for those who can’t afford the Voxativ Hagens with AF-2.6 drivers (just yet) and don’t have the BOBs to power using just a 300B amp. The OGYs will get you started. They also don’t cost that much so are a good choice.

Of course, you can use two 12″ open bass drivers in a single cabinet. But I challenge you to lift, move, and leave it to others in your family with the same concerns. It’s just too heavy and difficult to move. Plus, the BOB’s two stacked 12″ drivers per channel are made by EMS in France and sound better than the lower-cost 12″ drivers you might use in a DIY scenario. The BOBs are the way to do this. If you can’t afford the Hagen’s immediately, use the Closer Acoustics OGYs and upgrade over time. Add the BOBs when you can.

The Incredible Sounding Single Driver Hagen or OGY Speaker Sitting On Top Of Two BOB 12″ Open Baffle Bass Drivers Per Side (Left and Right). A good 300B amp powers the Hagen or OGYs and a low cost Class D amp powers the BOBs.

I’ve been searching for this audio system for many decades, and I’m both an OEM and an audio reseller. I’ve set this system up for demo purposes in Boston, MA, and can sell any items I mention. Let me know if you might be interested. The prices posted (on my components page) are standard reseller rates. I can do better if you work with me. The WAF factor for this system is excellent if you acquire the Hagens or OGYs first.

1. A Low-Cost Beginning Option

Start with a pair of Voxativ Hagen speakers with AF2.6 drivers or OGY Corian-clad bookshelf speakers on inexpensive stands. If you take time accumulating additional components, this can be an end-game setup or part of an optional BOB setup. Maybe you have the money to spend upfront to do this all at once. Each Hagen measures 8″ wide x 10″ deep x 14″ high and weighs 8 lbs for each cabinet. Each OGY measures 5.31″ wide x 12.05″ deep x 12.28″ tall and weighs 18.96 lbs for each cabinet. The OGY is a transmission line design and the Hagen is a short back loaded horn design. The front opening on each is not a ported design.

2. Purchase A Bricasti M3 DAC When You Can Afford It

Add the Bricasti M3 DAC for system volume control, remote operation, and network card (RJ45) capability, and you’ll have one of the most excellent sound qualities you’ll ever hear. This is a serious value even though it might appear expensive initially. It isn’t! Your source is the most critical component, and your speakers will play only what your source can provide. For what you get in sound quality, it’s not expensive! If you use the Hagen approach, you want to purchase a Bricasti DAC. Its sound quality is stunning!

You can start with any DAC you like, but this Bricasti DAC is extremely special and will blow anything close to its price out of the water. Your source is where you should first spend your extra money beyond acquiring your speakers.

3. Purchase an excellent-sounding 300B tube amp for the Hagens or OGYs (both played full range). This is your tuning device, so select it carefully! I can help you with this selection since I built my 300B tube amp to power these speakers exceptionally well and consequently have an absolute favorite.

3. Add 4 BOBs (2 BOBs per side) and a 2nd Class D amp (As You Can Afford it)

If you like bass (4 BOBs in total), two BOBs will become the stand for each Hagen or OGY channel, and you will end up with one of the finest-sounding audio systems you can build. The total sensitivity is 99db for the Hagens and 91db for the OGYs with an 8-ohm easy-to-drive load.

You will need a low-cost, volume-controlled Class D amp for the 2nd amp while using the 300B integrated tube amp for the OGYs.

The total floor space needed for the BOBs is 15.75″ wide x 13.78″ deep. Two stacked BOBs provide a stand to place each Hagen or OGY on top. Each BOB weighs only 24.25 lbs since no internal power amp exists.

You can creep into this optional system one component at a time without purchasing it all at once . . . and without having to sell or give up anything.

Build One Of The Best Sounding Audio Systems

1a. Voxativ Hagen AF-2.6 Driver Pair (My 1st Choice!)

My choice is the Voxativ Hagen monitors. However, they cost quite a bit, and a lower-cost way of getting started is to use the Closer Acoustics OGY speaker pair you see in 1b below. The Hagen’s are available with a beautiful black or white piano gloss finish, and I can order any of these for you, but I need to check what is in stock and obtain the latest price before you commit to this purchase. This is how to achieve the highest sound quality using a superb 300B amp. The sensitivity of these Hagen monitors is 99db into 8 ohms and is perfect for a 300B amp. If interested, message me using my contact page, and I’ll reply.

99 db Sensitive

1b. Closer Acoustics OGY Speaker Pair (To save money)

I would recommend either the black or white Corian-clad OGYs since they don’t cost much more than the wood-veneered OGYs, and by purchasing the Corian-clad models, you will obtain the absolute best sound quality. The sensitivity of these monitors is 91db into 8 ohms, and this lower sensitivity taxes a 300B amp, so playing all genres of music is limited, particularly when increasing volume. Bi-amping these speakers is required to add the BOBs to the OGYs. Otherwise, the 300B amp will run out of steam if power is required for both the OGYs and the BOBs.

91 db Sensitive
91 db Sensitive

2. Bricasti M3 DAC With Network Card & Remote Control Volume
(I wouldn’t recommend any other DAC, and I’ve owned over 50 DACs in the last eight years)

Bricasti M3 DAC – One Of The Best Sources You Can Use!
Bricasti M3 DAC Interior Photo

This is an easy purchase since you will receive a world-class DAC, a transparent remote volume control, and one of the best network audio streaming solutions that money can buy. The $1,000 optional streamer inside this DAC will keep up with a $20,000 Innous statement streamer, and that alone is worth more than the M3’s cost (just that one feature alone). I use the even more expensive Bricasti M12 DAC but have compared this to the M3, which has both in my system. The texture is different; of course, you receive more for the M12’s $16,000 retail price. A similarly equipped M3 only costs $7,500. The M3 would be my DAC choice if money were a concern. The M12 would be my DAC choice if money were no object.

The M3 blew my Lampizator Baltic 4 DAC with volume control, my Innuous Phoenix USB unit, and expensive USB cables out of the water and quickly replaced that system. Prior to the Baltic 4, I used the Halo May Kitsune DAC and the Terminator DAC and found the M3 to best them all. The M3 DAC made by Bricasti is a “sleeper,” in my opinion, and few know of its incredible capabilities. To gain this much audio quality for so little is amazing.

3. Purchase a 300B Tube Power Amp For The Hagens Or The OGYs

I built my 300B tube amp to power the OGYs and the Hagens, and I use it to check out various design alternatives. I’ve used all of the finest parts I can source and listen to, and by doing this, I can change parts rather than purchase an entire new amp.

On the other hand, you can purchase a commercial 300B amp and accomplish close to the same thing, and you don’t need to change anything. Many 300B designs and sound quality will vary considerably, particularly between the low-cost and high-cost models.

My favorite (the Yamamoto A09-S 300B) has a 300B sound quality close to the 45-tube sound quality and is something I enjoy. It is well-extended (both treble and bass) and sounds superb. You, on the other hand, can explore a bit. That’s why I only recommend the Yamamoto A-09S as the 300B amp you should use. It’s the best, even though you could spend considerably more for a good 300B amp. If you had one of these, you would agree.

Yamamoto A-09S 300B Tube Amplifier

I’ll leave alternatives up to you if you purchase a different amp, but I can already share that the A-09S is the finest 300B amp you can purchase and sounds superb with the Hagen speakers and even the OGYs. Of course, you can use alternatives. That makes this hobby fun and causes considerable buying and selling. However, if you want an end-game amplifier, the A-09S is it! And you do not need to spend more than what this costs (with tubes).

The A-09S is my choice for the 300B amplifier!

I enjoy fine-tuning this system and am bi-amping my audio system to obtain the best sound quality possible for the money spent. You are doing well; however, if you use just a pair of Hagen or OGY speakers on stands and an excellent 300B amp like the Yamamoto A-09S. You can quit right there. The bass might be light, but you can use this system as a superb, reasonably priced audio system that you will enjoy. And, of course, you should also use the Bricasti M3 DAC as your source, making this a superb-sounding two-component system plus your speakers.

Can You Use A Lower Cost 300B Amp?

Yes, you can, but you won’t receive the ultimate quality that a good 300B amp provides, and you’ll hear the difference. Hum and noise will be one of your issues. Linearity will be another. Treble and bass extension is another. Also, tube rolling costs will be high if you head in this direction. In all honesty, purchase the EMS and accept the driver tubes included with this amp once and be done with this decision if you want the best sound. However, it’s your money. Go ahead and spend it.

How To Start With Limited Funds

If you don’t have the money and want to get started, there are some lower-cost 300B amps you might consider. However, I won’t be responsible for your choice since this is not one of my solid and experience-driven recommendations. I don’t want to be held accountable for not liking the resulting sound of your system.

It’s very difficult to get a complete system to sound good, and I’ve already done that for you, which has cost me a considerable amount of money and time. You might not like this system if you use something other than what I recommend, and I don’t want you to eliminate it because you’ve used different and inadequate components.

Many people get rid of excellent components before optimizing what they already have, which is a learning process even though it’s not the correct way to learn. This approach costs a lot of money, and I’ve done it over a long period, but I’m an OEM and very anal and know what I’m doing. I enjoy the adventure. I’ve gained knowledge over time by spending money and listening firsthand. If you accept what I share, you can avoid the merry-go-round expenditure, but that decision is yours.

This System Now Provides The Best Sound Quality

Before listening to the OGYs with BOB stands, my favorite tube amp was my self-built 45-tube amp, and a pair of Charney Maestro Extreme cabinets with Voxativ A2.6 drivers. That tube amp wasn’t a problem, except it didn’t play with enough power (about 1.8 w/ch). Nancy didn’t like the size of the cabinets, so I changed even though I gave away my favorite sound at the time. However, I still remember how much I liked that system, and I’m glad I can use the Voxativ A2.6 drivers again.

My A2.6 drivers were 100 db efficient in the Charney cabinets, but I still heard distortion when playing loud. At normal listening levels, everything was superb with the 45 amp. So even though the 45 amp was excellent, the efficiency of these speakers still wasn’t quite enough. A 300B amp has enough power (8 w/ch versus 1.5 w/ch), so I’m returning to that former design and using those same drivers, the Voxativ AF-2.6. But this time, I’m not concerned about the bass from the AF2.6 drivers. The BOBs take care of that need. I also want my 300B amp to sound quality close to what my 45 tube amp put out but even better and to do so with components that I or anyone else can lift easily. Single-driver speakers sound transparent and can easily be too thin if you use a solid-state amp, so don’t do that. Only a 300B tube amp will take the edge off adequately and have enough power. The Yamamoto 300B amp will sound better than any other component, but HEY, this is your system, and you should make your own decisions based on your mistakes, too. So why not explore a bit? I’m just providing you with some honest information, and if you don’t accept that, it’s ok.

Seriously Consider The Yamamoto A09-S 300B Amp

An excellent 300B tube amp like the Yamamoto is ideal for this system. To obtain a good one, you have to decide first whether you like the thick molasses sound quality (like you might hear with a new production pair of 300B Western Electric tubes) or a more linear sound quality with treble well extended as well as bass (a Yamamoto A09-S 300B tube amp with EML 300B XBS tubes). Both are good and emotionally grabbing, but in my opinion, the Yamamoto A09-S 300B amp has the best sound and much better, more linear balance. It portrays music close to what I hear when it’s live, and that isn’t easy to do. The sound quality between these two approaches differs considerably, and I can help you decide which direction to take. If you want to do this on your own, more power to you, but it will cost you a lot, and you’ll need to do some serious buying and selling to hear the differences.

The Ultimate System

The ultimate way to “skin this cat” is to purchase a pair of high-efficiency speakers like the Voxativ Hagen with AF-2.6 drivers (I’m a Voxativ dealer if you want to go in this direction) and then add a Yamamoto A09-S 300B amp to head in the EML direction (I’m also a dealer for Yamamoto but all orders are custom and take at least four months or more to fill). A Yamamoto amp is voiced for the EML tubes, and a complete set can be purchased along with the amp, so no tube rolling is necessary if you go in this direction.

You’ll need a lesser 300B tube amp to sustain you while you wait since it takes at least four months and maybe six months for Yamamoto to build you a custom hand-wired 300B amp and ship it from Japan. Choosing a suitable 300B amp during that wait will help when your Yamamoto is ready since it might take up to 1/2 a year to get one built. By then, you’ll know the sound quality you like and have had a chance to explore various tubes. You can also purchase a quality 300B amp from another company or use one you already own. No, this isn’t an inexpensive direction, but it will provide the best sound quality for the money spent. Also, Yamamoto improves the sound quality of its amps (not by changing the amp design but by changing the quality of the parts. For example, many used A-09S amps will have toroidal-built transformers on board. The new split core transformers that are now used sound much better, and that is what you’ll receive with your order – the absolute best sound quality known to Yamamoto.

The Closer Acoustics lower-efficiency speakers (at 91db) are an excellent choice. They will provide you with single-driver sound and a very high sound quality, but how you listen will now be your issue. A pair of OGYs would be a good choice if you listen near-field in a small room. But, if you decide to listen in a larger room or further back, you will encounter problems a 91db sensitive speaker has, particularly when you play loudly and distortion sets in. You must play your 300B amp at about 20% of its total volume to avoid that. Even though they work, the OGYs don’t have enough “grunt” to do that well and don’t have the “grunt” if you add the BOBs and try to power this stack only with the 300B amp. That’s why I bi-amp and use a low-cost Class D amp for just the BOBs and the 300B amp for the Voxativ A2.6 drivers. That’s part of the law of physics you can’t avoid when using a good 300B amp. But bi-amping increases your sound quality, too, and isn’t challenging to do mainly because I set this system up and know what I’m doing. Ideally, it would be best to increase the sensitivity by purchasing the Hagen speakers with AF-2.6 drivers.

The BOBs (open baffle bass speaker pair per side) will extend the bass of either the OGYs or the Hagen monitors and are a perfect match for doing that. If you use a 300B amp to power these two small monitors, I would bi-amp your system using an inexpensive Class D amp with volume control (to match the volumes of the monitors on top and the BOBs below). The BOBs are 94db efficient and do bass augmentation well and seamlessly. I have never been able to properly integrate a subwoofer with fast, high-quality monitors like the OGYs or the Hagens (no matter the price or grand of the subwoofer, and I’ve used a large number over time.) Bass augmentation using open baffle bass drivers is the answer and the best way to work. Plus, you can begin with the upper cabinets on inexpensive Amazon stands, add the BOBs later, and then use them for stands if you want to acquire this system slowly.

I Will Help You Build This System

System integration is vital, and I will gladly do that for you. The 300B tubes last a long time, but EML 300B or Western Electric 300B tubes cost quite a bit. Those are the quality of tubes you should be using, and if you start with lesser-cost tubes, eventually, you will want to upgrade since lesser-cost tubes won’t sound as good. There is no substitute for a good pair of 300B tubes. Do tube listening before purchasing another 300B amplifier, and choose one built around a particular manufacturer’s 300B tubes. Then, replace your driver tubes to get the sound closer to what you desire. Put some hours on your system, and then get critical.

Get the sound quality close to what you like, then perfect it by purchasing a final 300B amp. If you are fortunate, you can purchase your ideal 300B amp right in the beginning, but even with enough money, obtaining a new production order from Yamamoto takes time. Honestly, this can be enjoyable and allow you to explore a bit. It’s the journey rather than the getting there that is special. If you go too fast, you’ll miss the “forest through the trees.”

This is how you’ll “fine-tune” your amplifier to sound like what you want and how to create your best room projects. This can be an absolute joy compared to a solid-state amp, so take your time. That’s also how I’ve developed my system and know what I’m doing. There is no way to rush this process and do it well. Purchasing used isn’t the answer; I won’t work with you if you do that.

What Do You Do If You Want More Bass And More Body?

If you want more bass, you should purchase a second Class D amp with volume control, which I highly recommend. Essentially, you bi-amp your audio system. The Class D amp that I recommend only costs around $449. It’s tiny and fits in almost any space, so there is no reason not to bi-amp this system! The Class D amp you’ll use is small and doesn’t cost that much. Plus, it will add to your sound quality, so it is a highly reasonable extra investment.

The OGYs and the Hagens are small, and the bass is limited (even though present) when using these cabinets alone. The two-volume controls (one on each of two amps) will be used initially to match the 300B and the Class D amps volumes. Using its remote volume control capability, the Bricasti DAC will output the balanced and unbalanced signals to each of the two amps and adjust the total system volume remotely. The M3 will play its single-ended RCA and XLR outputs simultaneously, so there is no problem when doing this. You only need to adjust the volume of both amps initially and then use the DAC for your actual volume changes. That’s what this DAC provides using any of the Bricasti DACs: M3, M1MKII, M12, and M21.

The OGY and Hagen monitors are transparent since they use a single-driver speaker without a crossover. You no longer hear the voicing of the crossover the speaker designer typically uses. The most significant benefit (other than the sheer transparency and being able to hear all the details) is that every designer is different, and their creation might not be what you want. Instead of being lassoed into a designer’s tuning of your speakers, you will listen precisely to what your system can do – good or bad. The sound quality can be thin and unattractive when using a solid-state amp. So don’t do that. However, the sound quality can be rich, full-bodied, and emotionally satisfying when using a good 300B tube amp. It’s the ideal amplifier to use, and selecting the right one is something I’ve already done for you. My recommended 300B tube amp is perfect for the OGYs or the Hagens. Using both the monitors on top and the BOBs below, you will have one of the finest audio systems you can obtain using two completely different designs within your one system.

Here is a photo of the recent 300B amp that I built. I replaced a Linear Tube Audio Zotl 40+ Reference with a quad of NOS Mullard EL34 tubes and found that this amp is much better sounding. It definitely will sound superb with a single-driver speaker system. I’ll provide my review when the OGY and Hagens arrive. They are about one week away.

My 300B Amp That Undergoing Considerable Upgrading, Including The Tubes
(I currently have over $6,000 invested in just the parts cost for this amp)

Continue Forward & Biamp The OGYs And Add The 12″ Open Baffle Bass Bob Units To Broaden The Low Frequencies (Bass Augmentation For The Main System)

Suppose you decide to bi-amp using a 300B tube amp (that puts out eight w/ch) for the OGYs or the Hagens combined with a more powerful Class D solid state amp (that puts out maybe 100 – 250 w/ch Class D) for the BOB open baffle bass speakers. You can adjust the volume control on each amp so the 300B and Class D amps play well together. Then, you can adjust the main volume using your Bricasti DAC.

I’ll recommend a couple of volume-controlled Class D amps you can use as I receive them and examine their sound quality for this use.

The BOBs come with an external inductor that limits the 12″ bass augmentation so it does not play higher than 125 Hz. You can connect your Class D amp here while you connect your good speaker cables to your pair of OGYs. Adding two BOBs per channel (left and right) to your audio system simultaneously adds even more body for your upper small monitors. It extends the bass augmentation below the 125 Hz crossover point. This system sounds excellent (one of the best you can create). You can use a low-cost Class D amp as your 2nd amp for the bass augmentation. Bass isn’t as fussy as the midrange and treble regions, but it needs to be fast and tight with plenty of power, and that’s precisely what you’ll get with the right Class D power integrated power amp.

Integrating a subwoofer has never worked for me (no matter how much I spent on the subwoofer system, including using an expensive electric analog crossover unit to get things right). This BOB bass augmentation approach works and sounds like an excellent floor-standing speaker with good bass without the size and weight I usually expect. The OGYs are front-ported, single-driver transmission designs, and the Hagens are front-ported, single-driver horn-loaded designs. The BOBs are open-baffle designs. Combining both designs (the small monitor with two BOBs per side) gives you the best of both worlds (with bass that doesn’t excite room nodes) and a reasonable combined efficiency level of 91-92dd for the OGYs and as high as 99db for the Hagens. Placement is much easier using these two systems as one audio listening system, and low-volume listening is excellent for both systems.

Closer Acoustics Three Stacked BOB Speakers With OGYs On Stands

A Pair Of Corian Clad Ogys On Stands Along SIde Three BOB’s Stacked

IN SUMMARY

I’ve just shared how to assemble this system one step at a time, going from an affordable 300B amp solution to one requiring more money and using two amplifiers (one for the OGYs or the Hagens and one for the BOBs). My recommendations accommodate the affordable audiophile and the most healed audiophile who wants the “best sound” at any price.

This system doesn’t cost that much even when fully maxed out and surpasses many systems that cost much more. What’s also nice about this system is that you do not need to give up anything other than possibly upgrading your 300B tube amp to a higher level (if you started at a budget level) and changing your stands to a pair of BOBs per side. Other than that, everything is purchased once and kept.

Do Cables & Tube Selection Make A Difference & Increase Your Enjoyment Of Music Playback?

80+ Reviews

A resounding YES! And Here’s why . . .

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Speaker Cables, Interconnects & Tubes

If you want high-quality, low-cost speaker wires and interconnects, I recommend the T14 speaker cables available from DHLabs and their interconnects as a low-cost option. The speaker cables can be bulk cables without a connector on either end and just raw cable wire that you terminate yourself. The interconnects will need to be RCA-connector-based, and I can recommend what to use with this system.

If you want the best, use what I’m using: the DHLabs Diety speaker cables and their pure silver Revelation interconnects. That approach will cost you considerably more but provides the best sound quality.

I’m a dealer for DHLabs (as well as other companies) and can help you acquire what you might need. In addition, I’m a Furutech dealer and recommend using their power cables with their right-angle power plugs. This combination isn’t their most expensive but probably provides the best audio quality and flexibility for the money spent. More about that as you assemble a system since wires are used to fine-tune a system after tubes are chosen. The key here is to use all the same company’s power cables in your system. Interconnects can vary, but power cables should all be the same.

I sell the most excellent-sounding cables as part of my customers’ audio systems, but I won’t recommend the most expensive. Spending money isn’t needed to create the sound quality you desire. I tune an audio system for your preferences and environment and don’t inventory or sell cables separately. My cable recommendations are used only for those building my recommended systems.

Tubes are also a tuning mechanism; personal preference and affordability are critical when doing this. NOS tubes can be expensive, and I purchase tubes like this for my system IF I can find them and the price isn’t too high. Swapping tubes becomes a pleasure since you can “tune” your audio system precisely to your preferences; everyone is different. More about this through my contact with you if you become a customer.